The Rising Cost of Mature Scotch

Oh my goodness, it's been too long! Too long since I posted, too long since I drank a dram of scotch.

But, here I am, forging ahead. Through tired eyes and a slogged brain, I mush! (only slightly over dramatic).

Today I address an issue that has troubled me for some time and will continue into the future.

I frequent my favorite booze shop Total Wine. I find they have superior selection for significantly cheaper prices. Where BevMo had Macallan 12 for $40, Total Wine had it for $30. Where JW Blue Label was $210 at Albertson's, it was $180 at Total Wine. For those of you who have not shopped for booze with me, let me tell you: it's a time consuming process. Much like the stereotypical woman shopping for a purse/pair of shoes/handbag, I browse. I read. I look. I compare. I search. I think.

Then I walk away.

Then I come back.

I always shop with a friend so we can discuss, because it's not just a purchase of mine, it's a purchase of all. The liquid will be shared amongst us all. Usually, a good 45 minutes to an hour passes before I buy. I do my research, I take my time, and only once have I ever regretted a purchase (and that's the only time I took the advice of the store employee).

Suffice to say, I remember things about my scotch. Like prices.

Prices are on the rise. Macallan 12 is now $42.99 at Total Wine. Everything keeps...getting...more...expensive. It makes it harder to justify a purchase. Where I would reward myself every few months with a $100 bottle, now for the same scotch it's more like $120. Soon I'll be buying "mid" tier scotches for $80!

What's the deal?!

Well, I have read several articles and noticed some things myself that corroborate the articles.

Firstly, the articles. That articles talks about a rising middle class in Asia and South America thirsty for whisky. Supplies are dwindling.  Classic Supply and Demand. The Supply is low and Demand is high = higher prices. The problem with scotch whisky is that it takes time to make more supply. The lowest standard single malt is 10 years. That means if demand is high today, the supply cannot grow until 10 years later. Scotch is a long-term investment. Distilleries must guess what the demand will be in the future. How were they to know an exploding middle class in Asia would enjoy scotch whisky?

Another reason I have noticed myself is the "cool" factor. And...I'm going to say it...fucking hipsters. Scotch has a certain sense of class about it, or an old-fashioned quality; grandfatherly quality. Hipsters being all "I was doing/drinking/eating that/this before it was cool," definitely honed in on whisky. First it started with obscure cocktails, then old fashioned cocktails. Manhattans and whatnot. Those are made with whiskey: bourbon, wheat, or rye.

Currently, Bourbon is the drink of choice for many in the "drink snobbery" crowd (but don't take it too seriously, bro). Yes, I'm being judgmental and generalizing, but IT'S MY BLOG SO EAT IT. But really, whiskey bars specializing in various whiskies have been opening up. There's one that opened up nearby me. The logo is an old fashioned bicycle

Hipster if I've ever smelled one. One outside patio has a DJ and loud music, the inside is bar-cramped with loud music, the downstairs is restaurant style seating with loud music...but there's a tiny cigar patio that is less crowded with (usually) quieter music. And (it pains me to say this), but their selection is good. Best selection at a bar within reasonable driving distance. 

Rising Middle Class and Dirty fuckin' Hipsters have increased demands. (HOW DARE YOU SUGGEST THAT I AM AM HIPSTER. I WAS DRINKING SCOTCH BEFORE IT WAS...oh God...*weeps*)

But what's the result? 

This is one result. Other countries are producing more of their own whiskies to introduce in a global liquor marketplace. Japanese, Indian, Sweden, France, and USA have been. producing more single malts as of late. Tastes are vastly different, but no less enjoyable (opinion...I enjoy a good scotch).

Also, ages of whiskies have been declining rapidly. As I mentioned in an earlier post about JW Gold Label ditching the age statement, older scotches are quickly running dry. Scotland is nearing depletion of mature whiskies. In an effort to keep up with demand, distilleries are releasing younger whiskies to have product now as opposed to 10 years from now. 

2 issues arise. 

1. Higher prices on mature whiskies. I have personally watched the higher aged whiskies increase in price even month to month. Sadly, there's not much I can do about it.

2. Younger whiskies are produced from all around the world. Flavor profiles change. Younger whiskies have vastly different qualities than older whiskies. Also, whiskies from different countries vary HUGELY. Soon the standard will no longer be a Macallan 12, but perhaps a Macallan "Distiller's Choice" with no age statement. It is a sad day when the tradition of Scotch Whisky is forsaken. Traditional values have such a place in scotch whisky mythology and production...and it saddens me. However, that doesn't mean they're not making older whiskies, it just means that now, things are a-changin'.

With more expensive whiskies, I'm going to be more hesitant to enjoy a good scotch on a regular basis. I'm going to want to save my now $85 bottle for special gatherings instead of the end of a workweek. Instead, my go-to will have to me a mediocre Glenrothes or an over-priced JW Black Label (which is a fine scotch, but not for the prices I have seen (upwards of $40 for Black!)). Alas, affordable and whisky are 2 words that are slowly creeping further and further apart. 

I have no solution, I'm afraid. I have introduced scotch to so many of my friends and am happy I did because I have drinking and conversation buddies. But now, maybe I should discourage people from drinking it. Perhaps my next blog post will be how "whisky: gasoline in a glass" is the worst drink of all time, fit only to clean the underside of semi-trucks and the inside of workboots. Maybe y'all will spread the word and soon we can make scotch "uncool." Then, and only then, will we bask in the abundance of affordable whiskies crafted for those with refined tastes (hah) and, more appropriately, the patience and dedication to enjoy a fine beverage. No, I'm not trying to promote snobbery...but with demand comes higher prices and those hit the wallet. 

So, lads and lasses, grab a dram whilst ya can. The price may not be right, but it's as good as it's gonna git!

What's the Wood got to do with it?

Oh, you thought you knew all the aspects of flavors in a whisky? HAH! You are mistaken, my friend.

Welcome back. Today we broach the subject of casks: what wood, why, and where from?

Traditionally, oak makes the best casks/barrels. Reason? The wood is strong but pliant; able to curve with the gentle shape of a barrel while remaining strong to not snap or crack under stress. Originally, the casks were merely a transportation and storage method. Inn-keepers and customers began noticing that storing them in the casks mellowed the flavors and altered the flavors for the better. BOOM: maturation in barrels.

Back in the beginnings of whisky, casks used for sherry from Spain were readily available, and therefore easily obtainable, and therefore widely used (and therefore once again). The thought process went like this: vast quantities and cheaply obtainable. Then in 1975, the dictator Franco of Spain died and Spain became a democracy. The trade unions demanded that the bottling of wines become a local Spanish business, and the supply became harder to obtain. Sherry fell out of fashion, and distilleries looked elsewhere. Bourbon barrels from the United States became more available, and the UK distilleries began using them...and they noticed different flavor profiles (crazy, right?).

Now, onto the nitty-gritty. What type of oak is preferred? Well, there are several types of oak trees ranging in size (half a dozen in Europe alone!). The preferred variety is Quercus robor aka the pendunculate oak. Q. robor tolerates a wide variety of growing environments typically found in England, France, and the Iberian peninsula (Spain and Portugal).

These trees once fed the Spanish Galleon production of the great era of exploration (Columbus anyone?). Macallan has been the most consistent user of Spanish sherry casks and has always had a steady supply. The city of Lugo is the modern-day center of sherry casks. To make these casks, the trees are cut into staves and air-dried for 12 to 13 months in the sun. The sun and weather washes out some of the tannins (a compound that is bitter in taste and (almost) acts as protection for plants. Too much tannin gives that dry, puckery feeling in wines). The staves then become barrels at a cooperage in Jerez. There, the barrels are used twice: once from 2 weeks to six months, and then a second time of the same length. They are then shipped whole to Scotland to be used for scotch whisky maturation.

The (silly) term used for the sherry casks are sherry butts. They have a 132 gallon capacity. They are big...and their size makes them difficult to handle. The preferred size are called "hogsheads" and are half the size. The hogsheads are usually American Oak (used for bourbon) casks.

American Oak (bourbon) casks have an entire aspect that sherry casks do not have: Charring. The legend goes like this: there was an accidental fire in a distillery that burned the casks. The integrity of the casks were preserved, so the distillery aged the whiskey anyways...and surprise: it was awesome. Realistically, it was an experiment gone right.

Remember: print the legend.

American Oak barrels have 3 levels of charring: light, medium, and alligator (cool).

So what does this have to do with scotch? Well, wood, being an organic compound, changes with weather. During maturation, the heat causes the wood to expand, and contract, allowing the whisky to "breathe" the air. On Islay? Seaweed and salt. In the Highlands? Floral flavors. Also, the type of casks imparts its flavor into the whisky. Sherry casks impart a fruity, nutty flavor while a bourbon barrel can add vanilla and tannins (also a charred flavor depending on how charred it is). Each barrel can be used multiple times: the first having the most profound, the second less, the third a little. If there is a fourth, it is usually used for blends. Some distilleries boast "only first-fill sherry casks used" while others prefer a more mellow second-fill. Many distilleries use both sherry casks and bourbon casks to create something in between (Glenmorangie is a proponent of this method). Remember when I said the wood breathes? Well, it breathes oxygen. Oxygen has a large effect on the liquid inside. Wines must be "aerated" before drinking. Once you open a bottle, it will not last long before oxygen makes the wine stale. With whisky, oxygen has been said to bring out the pleasant flavors of the whisky. When the whisky enters the cask, it brings traces of copper from the stills: that is the catalyst. Those begin to change the oxygen into hydrogen peroxide and that attacks the wood, releasing vanillin. The vanillin promotes oxygenation and brings the "pleasant" flavors to the fore. Vanillin is a naturally occurring element in the oak and gives a vanilla flavor (duh). The climate of tree growth plays a role in what happens during the oxygenation attack: Spanish oak is more resiny, American Oaks have poorer soil, making them heady trees, making them more active in the process of oxygenation. 

OH MY GOODNESS THAT'S SO MUCH STUFF.

Yes. Yes it is. Also, that's not all of it. Balvenie has a 21 year old Portwood scotch as well as a 14 year old Rum Cask.

As you can imagine, they change the flavor in the direction of the previous liquid inside the cask.

It is difficult to find a whisky that is the same liquid, but I have one particular scotch that I have. Lagavulin 16. If you remember, that's a damn fine whisky in my book. There is a "Distiller's Edition" (more on that another time) that has been matured in Pedro Ximenez casks near the end of its maturation. 

Lagavulin is a hearty whisky of seaweed, iodine, salt, peat, and warmth. I thought to myself as I shelled out a good chunk of change for the D.E. "What will the wine cask do to the flavor? How can a fruity, dry wine add anything to such a strong, bold flavored whisky?" Well...wow. 

Just

Wow

Let me give a brief review of both...

Lagavulin 16

Color: Deep amber, very viscous

Nose: Ocean, peaty, smoky (fo sho). Very strong nose

Taste: Warmth all over, peat and smoke, undertones of vanilla, oily, grassy, salty campfire.

Finish: Long and beautiful.

Now...if that doesn't make you want a dram, nothing will.

Here we go...

Lagavulin Distiller's Edition; Double-Matured in Pedro Ximenez sherry casks

Color: Deep amber with a reddish hue (obviously the sherry cask influence)

Nose: Still peaty and smoky (but less so), raisins, honey

Taste: Warm, warm, warm...there is the peaty/smoky base and oily viscous body, but an enveloping hug of fruit (raisins and cream). Overall mellower and rounder

Finish: Less intense, but longer and sweeter; smoooooooooth

It's as if the opposites completed each other by merging in a way one would not think possible. The wood began merely as a transportation and holding device. Yet, what a development. How amazing. Who knows what other casks distillers may use in the future. I, for one, support every experiment.

Slainte mhath!

What's with the Wood?

Hello, hello. So, we've covered the regions where scotch comes from. We've gone over how still can make a difference. How about the cask? 

Well, the answer is a definitive yes. Absolutely. Incredibly large difference.

First of all, scotch whisky in matured in wooden casks for a number of years after distillation. The minimum in 3 years and maximum, well there is a Dalmore 60... I'll stop drooling now.

Scotch Whisky rarely (if ever) uses new casks, The distillers always borrow a used cask from a different type of alcohol. Generally, Scottish distilleries use American White Oak casks used in the making of Bourbon, another type of whiskey. Other casks include Sherry casks from Spain, Wine casks from various countries (red or port), and even rum casks. 

American Oak casks often come charred (burned on the inside) to 3 varying intensities with the most charred called "alligator charring." (that's cool, methinks). Bourbon has a much more vanilla taste, a maple/flavoring with a different type of spice palate. Obviously, the scotch maturing in the cask will absorb some of the characteristics of the bourbon. Casks may be used up to 3 times, buteach successive   usage will lessen the flavors added by the cask. Johnnie Walker makes use of thedifferent intensities   of charred with their "Double Black" label which is Black Label matured in a more-charred cask. The same liquid, the same length of maturation, a wide variance of flavors. Where Black Label is sweet, viscous, and smokey, Double Black is cooler, smokier, and more coy. 

The next (and arguably most preferred) cask in the Sherry Casks. Sherry casks give a sweeter finish,making the  color more reddish and the flavors infused with a deep fruitiness. Macallan is famous for their use of sherry casks. The Macallan has 2 main lines of scotch: the fine Oak and the sherry casks. The standard and most popular Macallan are the 12 and 18, both sherry casks. The better known Fine Oak ages are the 10, 15, and there is a fine oak 18 but I have never seen it in person. In trying the fine oak Macallan (both 10 and 15), I found the flavors to be lacking: to light, too spicy for the whisky. I feel Macallan should stick to the sherry casks: damn do thy taste good!

Next is wine. Wine casks can come from Spain, France, Portugal, etc etc. Lagavulin Distiller's Edition is finished in Pedro Ximenez wine casks. My previous review of the Lagavulin 16 was essentially a sturdy, wam, oily, smokey whisky with luscious flavor. A true great. The Distiller's Edition...adds a whole new level of depth. The harshness of the iodine is dissipated while adding a layer of gentle, deep fruit and mellow cream. It enlightens the whisky. WOW. 

The Balvenie 21 Portwood is also a wonderful example of wine cask usage. Port is a type of wine originating in Portugal. Port wine is more alcoholic than standard wine and is much heavier and fruiter. Because of the sweetness, it is called a "dessert wine" in the States (and as a result is not respected. Too bad. Port is fantastic). The sweet fruitiness and sugary flavors absolutely permeate into the Balvenie. 

Finally, we end at rum. Balvenie 14 Caribbean Rum Cask. I have yet to try it...but I will. It;s quite intriguing. I have, however, had Angel's Envy Bourbon matured in rum casks. The bourbon was enhanced greatly by the flavors of the rum cask. I'm not sure how rum will act with scotch, but i think it will end up being more like sherry with more pepper and less fruit. 

So there you have it. A (not really) quick and dirty to casks and the places and liquids they come from. Next time: a review!