The Still of Distillation: Superstition, Madness, or Genius?

Scotch whisky is a liquid of much superstition. Steeped in tradition, any deviation or adaptation to modern time sis met with apprehension. Since the craft is hundreds of years old, much of the science of flavors is hard to pin down.

Which brings me to the shape of the stills. In the distillation process, the fermented liquid is boiled in the stills and is condensed via 1 of 2 ways. The traditional way is called a "Worm Tub" and is a long, curving pipe that passes through cold water. The more modern way is a large pipe containing smaller tubes full of the cold water. The distillate evaporates through the large pipe, passing the cooled tubes.

I'm not even going to touch whether or not the Worm-Tub is the best way vs. modern technology...not yet. I'm looking at the shape of the still themselves.

The list goes on, and on, and on...

There are MANY shapes, from pears to onions, Lanterns to lamps, extra tubing or purifiers, the list goes on. Then does the pipe that carries vapor exit at an angle or vertical? Perhaps and downward angle? 

Firstly, scotch whisky stills are made of copper. Copper is popular because it is easier to work with, absorbs sulphur and yeast from the mixture (undesirables in a finished product), reduces bacterial contamination, and is an excellent temperature transfer. 

Now the shape, oh the shape. What a wicked web we weave. There is much speculation about what the shape does for the finished product, but it is all anecdotal; nothing proven by science and/or experiment. Taller still are argued to catch much condensation before it exits, causing it to fall back down for a second distillation known as "reflux." Because of the "redistillation," taller still are said to have a more delicate flavor (much like the triple distilled Lowlands). Conversely, a short, fat still is said to be oiler, fuller, and richer. Some distilleries have been known to take extreme measures when replacing a still to keep the original shape. If the original still had a dent, the new still would be created with the same dent in the same place.

How can we tell? Well, certain regions all have the same basic shapes and, as we know, regions tend to have similar flavor profiles (mostly). Aaaaaannnnnndddddd the distilleries tell us so....

But I think there are some more practical reasons. Firstly,since many of the distilleries did not begin large, the space was limited. Many of the original still were shaped to fit in a small farmhouse. Tall ceiling but little floorspace? Tall and skinny. Basement with low ceiling but lots of floorspace? Short and fat. Also, the original still were made by the local coppersmith. He had a certain way of doing things, so all the still in the area would resemble one another.

The only way to know is to take an established distillery and still and completely change the still without changing the liquid or process. However, which master distiller will waste an entire batch of perfectly good whisky on a silly thing like that? (none).

Does this mean there is nothing to the tradition? Of course not. I just think that maybe there's a mystique about the stills that is more fun to perpetuate. From The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance, a classic John Wayne Western movie (SEE IT), 

"When the legend becomes fact, print the legend." 

Slàinte mhath!

What's in a (whisky) Glass...

A brief entry today about what glass you should drink your whisky out of and why. It's important and completely changes your experience (no joke).

If you are unfamiliar, there is a different wine glass for every type of wine out there. Bunches and bunches. Each glass is supposed to accentuate a certain flavor from he variety of wine that no other glass can.

I'm not going to sit here are tell you that you need 5 different scotch glasses: 1 for each region plus a blended glass. No no no no no.

But you will need a whisky glass.

But where to start?

It looks daunting, but chill out! You'll notice something...there are 2 types of shapes on that large, long list of pictures. There is the standard "rocks" style glass (old Madison Avenue) that and roughly the same circumference on top as they are on the bottom, or the top is wider than the bottom. Also, usually the glasses are angles, not curved. Madison Ave Glasses, Rocks Glasses, etc. These are appropriate for rocks (duh) and mixed drinks, but should not be the go-to for whisky.

The other style of glasses have a gentle curve where the lip on the glass is smaller than the bottom. The idea is that the smells are concentrated into your nose at 1 area instead of seeping everywhere. Whisky begins evaporating with air, that's what liquids do and that's what you smell when you do smell. The smaller opening puts all the vapors in one p[lace for sniffing. Also, when drinking, the smells go into your nose instead of your face.

Richard Paterson recommends the Copita Nosing Glass.

This is my go-to scotch glass. 

He also reccomends the Glencairn Whisky Glasses 

This is my social set of 4. 

The reason these glasses rate the highest in my opinion is that the shape cradles the whisky at the bottom, and concentrates the smells at the top only if you smell it or drink it. The shape holds the whisky down in the glass. A rocks glass allows air currents to swirl and sneak in and steal your smells. Also, you never, NEVER want to hold your glass by the surface touching the whisky. Direct hand contact to the portion your whisky is touching will warm the whisky. No no. Instead, with the copita, hold the stem or the base. The Glencairn, hold the base.

You'll never see these glasses at a bar because they are delicate and would be destroyed. But you, you discerning whisky enthusiast you, will take care of it. 

Don't cheat yourself out of a wonderful experience by drinking out of a sippy-cup. 

Drink like a Scotsman. 

Slàinte mhath!

Cheap Scotch Whisky

Up till this moment, I've talked about some pretty pricey scotches. None really less than $30 or so dollars, most above $50. I've talked of how you take care of your glass, how you nurture the flavors, and how you savor the moments spent with it.

"Come on!" you say, "I'm broke! What about all the cheap scotches? Are they garbage or what?"

Well, that's the question I intend to address today. Sort of.

When I talk cheap scotches, I talk of the types that you see at every bar, the "house" scotch they grab for mixed drinks. The drinks they bring you in Vegas for free whilst gambling. I have tasted a few and will address 2 of them specifically while mentioning others.

Here are the cheap-o scotches I have tasted:

Johnnie Walker Red Label $18
Dewar's White Label $18
Chivas Regal $20
Cutty Sark $20
J & B Scotch $22
Trader Joe's Highland Malt $16

There are several more amongst this price range, but these are what I have had.

Firstly, I will say that Glenfiddich 12 and Glenlivet 12 are in the price range but are certainly not cheap-o. They are cheap and lacking in comparison with other single malts, but they are leagues better than any of the aforementioned.

All of the aforementioned scotches are blended except the Trader Joe's. Blends are cheaper to produce because you can make vast quantities by adding grain whiskies. Obvious from a business standpoint. These cheap-o blends tend to be light, strong alcohol flavor, hints of smoke, but generally that's it. You can tell it's a scotch though!

I will separate the JW Red Label.

Red Label is the lowliest of Jw and it shows. However, although you can taste the alcohol (which is a sign of immaturity), it still retains the qualities of JW: smoke, smoothness, a bit of cream, and slight nuttiness. Red Label is very light because of its 8 year age. The age on a blend marks the youngest whisky in the blend (that means it could be blended with older whiskies). Red Label is LOVELY for making Scotch and Coke. Man, that drink is tasty. I highly recommend it. Red Label melds well into the Coke where the alcohol flavors disappear. I had a scotch and Coke in Vegas with Dewar's...and it was miserable. Nearly undrinkable if I wasn't trying to continue my inebriation.

But the only single malt here is the Trader Joe's Highland Single Malt. I actually was given a blind taste by my girlfriend's father,. eager to test my palate. I figured highland, less than $20. BOOM! In research, it is bottled by Trader Joe's and taken from the Tullibardine Distillery in Aberdeen Scotland. Owned by the Alexander Murray Co, they sell large volumes of whiskies and vodkas to other companies for bottling. http://alexandermurray.com/production.html This is a common practice, but usually more reputable distilleries oblige. Battle Hill Whisky takes leftovers from many distilleries and ages them one extra year before bottling. You get Macallan 19, Lagavulin 17, Aberlour 16, and other nodd year marking. Costco often does this (Kirkland brand). It seems an easy way to get a high-end scotch for a severely reduced price! Well, my Battle Hill tastes have been less than stellar. It seems that the ones who know their product best are the distilleries themselves. 

Go figure.

Back to the TJ Highland 10 year old. For a cheap scotch, it's pretty good. 

Color: Pale yellow/gold

Nose: Straw, floral, slightly biscuity

Taste: light, slightly smoky, and...nothing much else

Finish: bitter

Really, when compared to any other single malt, it falls flat. The taste doesn't match the nose, and the aftertaste is bitter and short. However...for the price, you can't go wrong. My hip flask is full of the TJ Highland 10. Good for a mix drink, and it has some sort of character as opposed to the bland, awful blends like Dewar's. 

If I reccomend cheap scotches, I would drink...

JW Red Label

Chivas Regal

Trader Joe's Highland 10

Stay away from J&B, Dewar's, and Cutty Sark (even for mixed drinks). You won't regret the extra buck spent on a drink you can sip without regret.

Scotch on the Rocks? NEVER!

You've heard it before in a movie. A gentleman appearing smooth and debonaire orders a scotch on the rocks and everyone oohs and aaahs.

Now, if you've been following my instructions, you've already watched Master Blender Richard Paterson tell you to never get it "on the rocks." The crumbly sound of a bartender reaching for ice is a terrible sound indeed. I'm going to talk about why you don't get it "on the rocks," where the hell that phrase comes from, and what you can do instead.

Firstly, look at the picture above. How much volume is taken up by the ice? Half? A Third? Shoot, it's more than necessary. Why do you want to dilute your spirit? You paid good money for that liquor, so don't bland it to death! If you ordered a fine quality Clam Chowder, don't drown it in Tabasco! And look, it's not cool to order a scotch on the rocks. Don't drink scotch because it's cool, drink it because you want to have the pleasure of drinking it. Order it "neat." That means nothing but scotch. Bartenders worth a damn will give a slight acknowledgment that, "Hey, this guy knows some stuff," and then give you a decent amount. I've never been disappointed with the amount of whisky served me when ordered neat (as opposed to ordering a rum and coke and finding it mostly coke and ice with hardly any rum). 

The phrase "on the rocks" comes from an earlier Scotland. Scots would find need of cooling their drink, so they would walk to the nearest river and grab a stone (or a rock) and plop it in their drink. Ta-da! Scotch on the rocks.

But now you ask, what can I do?! There are no rivers nearby!

Chill. No, literally. You can chill your glass beforehand in the freezer. Or you can buy your own whisky rocks. 

They're made of soapstone so they won't scratch you glass and do a good job of cooling your scotch. I keep a rocks glass with 4 rocks in it in my freezer at all times. Just in case. This assures that the scotch will not be diluted, but will still be chilled. Richard Paterson suggests the adding of a small amount of cold, distilled water to your whisky. When I received my Copita Nosing Glass, it came with a pipette (eye dropper thing) intended for the scientific adding of drops of water.

Now, the more important question: why? Why do you want a cold whisky? Why do you not want to dilute it? But Paterson says to do so? Well, whisky is usually bottled at 40% abv. Whisky is NOT, I repeat, NOT 40% abv naturally. Water is added before bottling in order to bring the alcoholic content down. Some whiskies bottle at what is called "Cask Strength," i.e. the abv level of the cask. Most add water to attain 40%. Paterson suggest 38% by way of adding water. What does such a small amount of water do? Well, is softens the flavors of the scotch; takes away some edges. Mostly, the harsh smokiness or saltiness is lessened and the overall palate is lighter and clearer. A Lagavulin 16 is a heavy scotch, warm, full, oily, salty, and peaty. Add a bit of water, and it becomes less peaty, less smoky, less salty, and the undertones of nuts and butter come forth. It's a way of equalizing the harsh flavors and the subtle flavors. 

Same goes for temperature. A cold scotch will hit your tongue crisp! The flavors will bounce and dance on your tongue. A warm scotch will lazily sliiiiide into your throat. I like to start cold because it will always heat up, but you can't cool it with your hand. And in my experience, a warmer scotch's flavors are harder to distinguish, almost as if they meld into one complete picture. A cold scotch, to me, seems easier to pick out the individual traits. 

So what have we learned?

1. Never order your scotch "on the rocks."

2. Chill a glass or some rocks to cool your drink.

3. A little bit of water is ok (and eve good), but too much (as in ice) will leave your drink weak in flavor and content.

4. If you are at a bar and really, really want a cold scotch, ask for 1, *maybe* 2 ice cubes.

As with anything scotch related, try many things! 2 drops? A spill? Ice cold? Lukewarm? No one drinks the same. I find it amazing that 1 scotch, say Cragganmore 12, can taste so vastly different utilizing temperature and water. Cragganmore is a coy, stealthy Speyside. Cold, it is dark and brooding, mellow but crisp. Warm it is buttery and viscous; sliding to and fro. Add a bit of water, and the darkness dissipates leaving a brilliant clarity of golden sunlight filled with floral notes on top of butternut almonds and smoke. My friends and I will often drink the same 3 malts first at the same time, but experiment with differing treatments. Much like our conversations. We all speak on the same topic, but we approach from different angles (Devil's advocate and whatnot). There is no right way to drink nor to speak, and the experiences are all vastly different...but we all become more enriched because of our differences. A melding of ideas and experiences enriches us all.

Glenkinchie 12 Year-old

Today I will be reviewing the Lowland Classic Malt Glenkinchie 12. As I spoke before, the Lowlands region only has 3 distilleries active. This malt is part of the "Classic Malts Collection" which are, well, malts that are classic. Classic Malts are Glenkinchie, Dalwhinnie, Cragganmore, Talisker, Oban, and Lagavulin. Lowland malts are distinctly delicate. The reason for this is they are triple distilled. Distillation is the boiling and evaporation of the barley mash, then collection again. 3 times the work, 3 times the loss of liquid. Every time you distil a whisky, you lose a bit to the air. This is nicknamed the "Angel's Share." If that's the case, angels are Lowland drinkers. The malt itself is called the "Edinburgh Malt." In my research, the distillery opend in the 1820s or 1830s in a farming community located in the glen of Kinchie burn. See what they did there: glen of Kinchie.

The triple distillation makes this whisky delicate, sublime, and...difficult to pin down. I'll give the standard review before getting too esoteric...

Color: pale gold; wheat colored

Nose: Grassy, dried flowers, light, a dash of honey with some gentle nuttiness

Taste: Light, light light; grassy and lightly fruity with a hint of smoke

Finish: smokier, gassier, calm; medium-long (but not heavy)

Now the Glenkinchie attracted me because I had only had Auchentoshan from the lowlands (12 and threewood). I wanted to expand my lowlands experience. also, I was (am currently) intrigued by having all the classic malts. I have owned every bottle except the Oban and the Glenkinchie. So I decided on the 12, their standard bottling. This malt, to me, is a summertime malt. The lightness and color is akin to the dry grasses of an ending summer's day. The Lowlands in Scotland are predominantly flat and densely populated. The flat ground led to farming, which is the well-spring of civilization. I find that in drinking the Glenkinchie while it is hot outside, it has an equalizing effect on me. Much like the hottest areas on Earth, the people drink hot tea to cause sweating, I feel this malt does a similar effect. It is quite herbal and grassy, but never overwhelming because (I think) due to the triple distillation. If distilled once, I think the grassiness would be overwhelming. The herbal qualities would take over and you'd lose the subtle nuttiness and underlying sweetness. However, with time comes temperance, and the malt is finely balanced. Currently, I sit sweating in the heat of an august evening and the Glenkinchie is a wonderful companion. Drinking it feels like drinking air: the liquid is so light that the only sensation I have entering my palate is one of tase, not temperature, weight, or texture. The liquid is not viscous, but quite watery (in a good way). Many people can drink this malt easily without being overwhelmed by its nose or taste. 

However...most lack the patience to search for the flavors hiding around the periphery. This is a coy malt, only yielding its secrets to those who search. Where Lagavulin ANNOUNCES ITS PRESENCE, the Glenkinchie is happy never speaking...unless you ask. And pry. And cozy up to it. 

A coy malt with a gentle reward, Glenkinchie 12 is definitely a classic worth trying.

The Regions

Welcome welcome. Today I will be speaking about the different regions of whisky distillation in Scotland. This discussion of flavors only applies to single malts. Blends are blends of different regions...so it's a mixture.

Now, there are 4 main regions of whisky distillation* (actually there is 5...but I'll explain later). They are the Highlands, Lowlands, Speyside, and Islay.

Lowlands: The most delicate of the regions. Light, herbal, and complex, the Lowlands region is the southern half of the main body of Scotland. There are only 3 lowlands distilleries active. They Bladnoch, Auchentoshan and Glenkinchie. The Lowlands is the only region using the triple distillation method. Each malt is distilled 3 times before being casked and bottled. I think the main reason other regions do not is that it's time consuming! 3 times the time necessary. Also, flavor-wise, other regions do not lend themselves to such delicacy. Lowlands are widely enjoyed by many, but they lack the romanticism of the Highlands. The Lowlands geography is flat, for from the dramatic hill and mountains of the Highlands or the craggy coasts of Islay. Lowlands are a perfect summer's day scotch. One can taste the grass in the heat, the delicate flowers from the breeze, the supple sweetness of the honey, and all without offending a delicate nose. Lowlands are underrated and underappreciated. One can only hope more distilleries find a foothold.

Highlands: The largest region, this region is smokey, fruity, heavier than lowlands, spicy, and varied. Since the region is so large, whiskies can vary from the heathery spice of Northern Highlands to the fruity flavors of Southern Highlands. Some famous distilleries are Oban, Glenmorangie, Dalmore, Dalwwhinnie, among many. They are more full-bodied than Lowlands and carry a more viscous feeling to the liquid on your tongue. This, compounded with the smokiness and spiciness of certain malts makes a Highland a sitting experience (or at least a stopping experience). Not one to drink on the go (nor is any scotch, really).

Speyside: Surrounded by the Highlands, the Speyside region  occupies a specific space within the scotch ethos. Speyside is the center of scotch whisky. Located along the river Spey, more than half of the distilleries in all of Scotland are located in this region. The flavors are strong of smoke, fruit, syrup, and elegance. Famous distilleries include Glenfiddich, Macallan, and Glenlivet. Speyside has a firm body followed by distinct flavors ranging from fruitiness to smokiness, spice with nuts and coffee. The most well-known.

Islay: Named after the island and pronounced "eye-luh", these are tastes of the sea. Salty, seaweed, iodine, smoke, PEAT PEAT PEAT, and warmth, Islay whiskies are the most distinct of any region. My personal favorite, Islay whiskies are NOT for beginners. They can be overwhelming to nostrils and tongues alike, but once conquered offer the most intense flavors (in my opinion). Islay often astound me because they are the same ingredients...but they taste so radically different. Amazing.

Now...for the 5th. Campbeltown was once a booming capital of Scotland for whisky, but has since fallen into near nothingness. As of recent, the distilleries are making a comeback. Whiskies include Glen Scotia, Glengyle, and Springbank. The whiskies from here are a cross between and Islay and the mainland whiskies. There is a definite peatiness and saltiness, but to a much lesser degree. The whiskies tend of be bright and light as opposed to the oilier, heavier Islays.

There are a few other islands where whiskies come from (notably Talisker), but not entire regions.

Now you're thinking, "Which is best?" Impossible to tell. That's like asking if I like to breathe. Ok, terrible simile. But what mood am I in? What's the weather outside? What time is it? Have I eaten? Lowlands are perfect for hot days. Highlands are wonderful paired with a cigar. Speysides are wonderful digestives. Islays are a meal in themselves! Campbeltown can be an aperitif. Is your palate sensitive? Do you like the beach? Do you like fruit? Nuts? Chocolate? The possibilities are endless. Currently I have 2 islays, a lowlands, a Campbeltown, and 2 blends. Next...perhaps a Highlands. I've had my eye on a few different ones. Amongst my friends, I have the affinity for islays (although I'm working on them!). They don't particulary enjoy the harshness that can be associated with many islays. Different strokes for different folks. 

So there you have it. My painless regional variations. What's you mood? 

Next time: a review!

Richard Patterson: Master of Whisky

Well, I suppose I'll tell you a secret. I didn't spontaneously gain knowledge about scotch (no shit, right?). I began with trust Google. Upon searching, I came upon a gentleman by the name of Richard Paterson. He is a 3rd generation Master Blender for the Diago company which deals with the great malt Dalmore and the sublime blend Whyte & Mackay (among others). A Short biography

http://www.youtube.com/user/masterblenderrichard

Watch. Them. All.

He taught me how to drink a whisky. He taught me what goes into a whisky, what it takes to blend, and how to appreciate a dram. He gave me the tools: copita nosing glass, cool distilled water, a nose, and a mind willing to take the time. Watching his passion, hones by 3 generations of whisky blenders, is truly inspiring. He's humorous, "If I ever catch you nosing like this [nosing like a wine}, I'll kill you." Always dressed in a suit with a finely trimmed mustache, his class exudes from the walls and his sonorous voice comforts your confused mind. Shhh, do not fear the whisky; respect it.

There are a few rules he has that I have adopted. They are as follows...

Hold the glass from the stem to prevent warming.

Smell deeply! Get your nose into the glass and give several smells. It's a conversation with a beautiful woman. Hello. How are you? I am fine. Thank you very much. Take your time, let it speak.

When tasting, chew on it; swish it around your mouth gently. Hold it for 1 second for each year old it is. 12 years for 12 seconds, etc. (that's a minimum, by the way).

Swallow and take a deeeeeeeep breath. Allow the smells and taste to permeate into your sinus and out through your mouth. Oxygen will intensify the flavors and you'll taste the whisky long after you've finished.

For a nominal fee, Mr. Paterson will spend some time with you and create a custom blend based upon you as a person. what a dream! Often, my friends and I have debated what malt we would be! Am I a Highland? A Speyside? Do I have a heavy fire, full of smoke, but maybe a bit harsh? Or am I full of clarity, gold, with a bitter coffee taste? How on Earth could one decide? And yet, to take MULTIPLE malts and marry them together to work harmoniously! What a task.

How to drink whisky
Listen to the Master. When someone can make a living teaching other show to drink, tasting whisky for a living, and blending together these wonderful liquids, you better take your time and appreciate it. To speak with someone who can analyze the effort, the history, shows a level of commitment to the conversation and mental capacity to converse of things more esoteric than commonplace (I sound like a pompous dick. Sorry).

But approaching whisky with reverence and respect gains respect from those around you. Merely ordering a whisky neat (no ice) from a bar will give at worst, quizzical looks and at best, an interest in your opinion. Bartenders have often given me the, "Ok, whatever you want" with an order of a Talisker 10. Surrounding people will often poke fun, "That's a grandfatherly drink!" But when I take my time to drink it, when I have my private conversation with the drink, they all watch and wonder. Some roll their eyes, some ask, "Why do you drink that crap? It tastes like band-aid water." The conversation has begun and they are listening. I have not had an intentions about starting conversation and I have expended zero effort to engage. Yet, when I drink, others take notice and need to know why. Already, my opinion is valued (whether ridiculed or respected). Any publicity is good publicity, right? Loved or hated, the emotional content remains. A drink with that much intrigue is always something to be pursued.