Sunday, September 22, 2013

The Flash of Platinum (Label)

Hello again! It has been a bit of time since I have posted, so I do apologize. My job as a teacher has me working like a madman, so I think a once-weekly post will be a regular occurrence.

But onto the heart of the matter today. I will review the new Johnnie Walker Platinum Label.
Firstly, as with Johnnie Walkers, this is a blend. an 18 year blend. Blends are age-marked by their youngest whisky,so the youngest whisky in Platinum is 18. The thinking behind Platinum Label on JW's marketing side is geared towards the Asian Market specifically. A friend of mine was touring the Pacific Rim (KAIJU!) with an Asian orchestra/cult a few years ago, and he spied Platinum in the duty-free catalog in flight. He texted me and I immediately set to work! I looked up where this mysterious label had materialized from. As it turns out, JW was testing its sale in Asia. The Asian market and Asian consumers tend to value age and status highly. It was that thought that caused JW to create an older aged, highly touted blend; they called it a "premium product." As opposed to Italy, which values young flavor full of spice (but not too heavy) or the French whisky market which enjoys a good fruit flavor, the Asian Markets want that status symbol and that age marking. Platinum: more valuable than Gold.

Fast forward a few years and Platinum Label has made its way to the USA. I was planning on waiting until next month to purchase, but a very dear friend was visiting from out of town, and another dear friend was visiting from even further out of town. These were also the 2 gentlemen that were with me the first night any of us had our first scotch experience with JW Green Label. And how appropriate that Platinum replaces Green in JW's lineup.

Storytime later. Reviewtime now.

Color: Dark, hints of orange, viscous, does not stick to glass. It looks as if it is one solid entity trying to stick together.
Nose: Herbal, slightly spicy (but in a minty way), raisins, vanilla/caramel/whipped cream
Taste: Very light, herbal (mint, menthol), dark dried fruity undertone, whipped cream, cinnamon juuuust on top.
Finish: Quick, clean finish

The most unusual aspect of this particular whisky was how cold it sat on the tongue. Many times, alcoholic beverages burn, right? Well, Platinum is as cold as ice. No rock necessary. It's the same cool feeling of a mouthwash (but nothing like the taste).

Ok, here comes the extra baggage. That finish is short, too short for my taste. And how different it truly is from any of the other blends. It is a fitting profile, because it did "replace" Green Label. Green was a very different blend because it was a vatted whisky (only single malts, no grain whiskies). Green Label tasted much different than Black, Red, or Gold Label (Blue has its own category). Green was complex, it was coy, it made you work. It rewarded that work with a quiet intensity. Alas, they killed off Green Label in favor of Platinum. The easiest thing to do is compare it to Gold Label.
Both are 18 year old blends and both are named after precious metals. Their prices are within $10 of each other, with Platinum being slightly more expensive, so negligible. Why would you choose Platinum? Well...you wouldn't. Not for the price. Don't get me wrong, I am absolutely glad I bought Platinum and would have done the same thing...but it's not worth the price. It is not with the likes of Gold. It is definitely more like Green. Gold Label tastes brilliant, bright, sparkling, shiny, and everything you imagine with Gold. It has a honey sweetness, a smoky body, a creamy viscous quality, and a finish that will last and last and last...truly a scotch for a celebration. Platinum is a contemplative scotch. It is non-offensive, one I think you could (honestly) give to anyone and they won't scrunch their face in revulsion. Most non-whiskyphiles akin whisky to gasoline. I think that Platinum is one they could choke down. I feel Platinum makes no statements and assumes no position, but smoothness was the quality, above all, JW was going for. There is no sharp edges, no particular area where it excels, but that is its excellence. This scotch is the smoothest blend I've ever had, bar none. Yet, in that smoothness, the finish lacks. The moment you swallow and exhale, its gone. 

So overall...I enjoy Platinum. Honestly, it would be the one I out in a decanter and serve after-dinner. But, it's too expensive for that and methinks I'd rather put JW Swing instead. 

And in relation to Green Label, Platinum is a different experience. Where Green is an exploration of all of Scotland, where the flavors dance and play upon the tongue, Platinum feels like an arrival point; a definitive change in focus. Platinum is the heralding of a new JW direction: premium and status. Scotch has an inherit sophistication (with a whiff of old fart-ness), but Platinum is (in my opinion) an attempt to modernize and add a cool factor to sophistication. Green was a flavor expedition. Platinum is a calculated smoothness. The conversation with my scotchphiles on our tasting of Platinum was one of muted discussion. To be fair, we're all older and it was late (which is difficult to stay up all night when you're older!). But I felt that while tasting, there was not excitement. Oh ho, there was anticipation. We were giddy as children. The slick box Platinum comes in has a fasted top that requires a button push to open: cool. But after the taste, there was no "Aaaaaaahhhhhh" moment. There was no awed silence. There was a content "Mm." Platinum is weightless and light; smooth above all else. And as a result, it spurs no conversation. It does not cause as much pause in conversation. With a truly effectual scotch, there is silence at first: a long, sustained awe. A frank discussion of taste, then repeat...the intricacies are fleshed out. And just as the scotch has depth, our minds are deepened. Soon our conversations become honest and varied. No malice passes our lips, but vehement disagreement among men (or women (I ain't no sexist)). Platinum, instead, lacks those characters, keeping our mindset in the now, in the present. There was no timeless conversation, there were no energetic or emotional declarations: it was smooth. For my money, the best JW 18 year old blend you can get is Gold. 

UPDATE
So in reading, I have a worrisome discovery. (also, astute observers would notice the picture I posted). Gold Label 18yr will be phased out (read: discontinued) after this year. Instead, JW will have "Gold Label Reserve" without an age marking. That means there is no guarantee of age. Definitely worrisome. Maybe there won't be a change of flavor: who knows! But would you spend Gold Label price for something that could be as young as 3? That's wild speculation on the age part, I'm playing paranoid crazy. But it is interesting that they drop the age for the word "Reserve." I wonder what will change...

And why should there be a change to their (let's be realistic) flagship? Blue may be the priciest, but the one everyone can drink (although its pricy) is Gold. Gold is standard (get it? Gold standard). It's celebratory. Why change what isn't broken? Why change what is extraordinary? Why not come out with "Platinum Label Reserve?" Apparently Platinum was only served to guests of JW until being released now. JW is moving in a new direction, for better or for worse. I have a sudden urge to purchase Gold Label 18yr before it becomes Reserve...

UPDATE AGAIN
Looks like Gold Label Reserve will be $20 cheaper (a reflection of the lack of age). In musing over the topic, one reason I can think is that perhaps the amount of 18yr single malts is become scarce and/or too expensive to make Gold Label 18yr (or too cost inefficient). With the new Reserve and Platinum, there is a whisky for any price: $15, $25, $30, $50, $60, $100, $150. The range is there (although it was there before in a way, but this a planned, marketing-driven decision). Looks like Gold won't be worth what it used to...


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